This is about the West Country Group’s Falmouth event which was scheduled for 8 days, 28 May until 4 June, but terminated because of work commitments and deteriorating weather.
Saturday 28 May. As not everyone had arrived, a few of us had a pleasant walk from Penance Mill Farm camp site, along the coastal path from Maenporth to Porthallack, in the Helford estuary; returning to our start point in the late evening. This is a very pleasant walk, taking in some of the best coastal views along the coastline. The return journey was spectacular with the setting sun playing on St. Anthony’s Head lighthouse, approximately 5 km from Rosemullion Head. Looking out to sea we could see a couple of container vessels anchored, awaiting either a revictualling tender or a berth in Falmouth dock. On our arrival back at the campsite we discovered that more canoeists had arrived, thankfully making a full complement for the rest of the holiday.
Sunday 29 May was scheduled to be a 35 km paddle from Truro down to St. Mawes and return. However, as we would have experienced a fresh following breeze on the first part and a strong head wind for the return trip, we decided to have an easy paddle from Truro down to Loe Beach. Seven of us launched on the ebb, which is not really noticeable, soon passing Malpas (pronounced Mowpas), which lies at the mouth of the Tresillian River. The Tresillian can only be paddled up to the A39 bridge, at Tresillian, on flooding spring tides, unfortunately we were off springs. Where Truro had been houses and wharves, Malpas and the riverside downstream, was like being on a tropical river with the trees sweeping down to the water’s edge. In fact, when there are spring tides (the highest tidal waters) the leaves and branches of the trees dip in the water as though tickling for trout.
Further downstream we came to the mouth of the River Fal on our left. The river at this point is approximately ¼ km wide as it sweeps round to the right. On turning the bend, the Smugglers restaurant on the left bank comes into view. The restaurant is no more than a small thatched house, where it is rumoured that Generals Dwight D Eisenhower and Montgomery, with others, met to discuss the final plans for the invasion of France. The Americans built concrete roads which carve through the woodlands down to the Smugglers restaurant, plus an extremely wide slipway for launching their landing craft. Like most of the old neglected industries, nature has reclaimed the area transforming it into a beautiful forested and tranquil place.
A short way past the Smugglers eatery, on the right, lies Cowlands Creek. A short way up the creek it forks. At the junction is a wharf reputedly built in the early 18th century for large sailing craft which used to collect the tin ore to transport up to Liverpool, among other destinations. There is also an iron age settlement in the woods. It is very difficult to find as it looks just like a mound, except it is oval, covering an area equal to a football pitch. Further up this tranquil tree lined creek is Cowlands, which appears to be about three or four houses nestling in a valley. The creek and the stream that feeds it were too shallow to allow a sea kayak to travel far. We therefore returned to the River Fal.
Cowlands Creek forms a junction with the River Fal and its continuation, King Harry’s Reach, which is gorge like in appearance. Large ships lie at anchor in this narrow reach, two abreast and in line astern. They are moored there sometimes for years, with a skeleton crew aboard, awaiting either a cargo, refitting, a new owner or to be sent for scrap. Though these boats tower above canoeists, they are not seen until rounding the bends at either end of the reach because of the surrounding tree lined countryside. A chain ferry crosses the reach at regular intervals, and is the only short route for vehicles to get to Roseland and St. Mawes from Falmouth.
At the end of King Harry’s reach canoeists can look back over their right shoulder to see Trelissick across a wide expanse of lawn. This is an impressive National Trust property with extensive gardens, well worth a visit.
Finally we arrived at Loe Beach where refreshments were purchased and the boats loaded onto the cars. A wonderful day’s paddle in an area which begs further exploration.
Monday 30 May. Our next planned trip was from Loe Beach to Flushing return, 12 km. Flushing village was named by Dutch engineers who were employed to build its quays and sea walls, in the 17th century. Many of its houses are elegant Queen Anne style, originally belonging to captains of the Falmouth packet ships. Flushing was a very busy port in its own right, trading with the West Indies and North America. In the mid 19th century the Post Office switched its operation from Falmouth to Southampton, which led to the decline of both Falmouth and Flushing. Flushing lies directly opposite Falmouth and they are serviced by a small passenger ferry. The view to each town from the other is fascinating, Falmouth so busy with small craft moored and bustling about everywhere, Flushing so peaceful and picturesque.
Five of us set out from Loe Beach heading for Flushing. However, after crossing the mouth of Restronquet Creek, owing to the nature of the underlying rock shelf, the water conditions became a little difficult. Two paddlers returned to Loe Beach, which proved to be a good decision for them, as the wind increased causing a slightly larger chop on the water. Rounding Trefusis Point the water conditions calmed down appreciably. We were met at Flushing Wharf by four members of the camping group. Two of us decided to paddle to the upper reaches of Penryn Creek, before returning to our fellow paddler. It was decided that the return trip to Loe would be by two paddlers only.
The return trip was slightly choppier between Trefusis Point and Penarrow Point. A decision was reached to paddle from Penarrow Point directly into Carrick Roads and across to Loe Beach. We had decided that the trip would be that much quicker, and we would also avoid the rock shelf between Mylor Churchtown and the entrance to Restronquet Creek. The wind had less effect as we were now on a lee shore. My partner, an experienced white water paddler, agreed that it was an interesting trip in that he had never experienced sea conditions quite like we had encountered. His initiation into real sea canoeing was yet to come.
Tuesday 31 May saw the return home of two of the group. The weather was excellent, so I uprooted my tent from the mire and set it down somewhere drier. Two of us set out for a stroll along the coast path from Penance Mill to Swanpool, via Maenporth. The pleasure of reaching Swanpool was sampling the joys of large cool ice creams. On the return journey I was educated on bird life. I even recognised a yellowhammer, something I hadn’t seen since childhood. I never realised that birds, of the feathered variety, could bring such pleasure. I always thought they were one of God’s creatures created purely for the enjoyment of one’s friends. After one has spent long hours washing one’s vehicle or cleaning one’s windows, birds leave their indelible mark, to the delight of spectators.
Wednesday 1 June. Five of us set off from Helford Passage, heading upstream to Porth Navas, then on to Porth Whellan, returning to Helford Passage on the ebb tide. My partner from Monday’s paddle decided that he would like to experience the real sea. So the two of us set out for Dennis Head, where the water was flat calm. We pushed on to Nare Point where we could see in the distance some breaking water. However, as usual when arriving at these places, the waves were well spaced out and only breaking over the rocks. We continued further, rounding Nare Head. Again the water was calm with a beautiful ground swell. Prior to reaching Porthallow, we followed the swell in towards the shore, watching it crash in a crescendo of noise and foam against the rocks and cliffs. The beach at Porthallow was very steep shingle and the sea dumped savagely. My partner became a little concerned as I vanished from sight in swells.
Our return journey had to be planned fairly carefully as we were now paddling into the ebbing tide. Close inshore everything was fine, as most of the time one was in an eddy, which sped us along quite fast. On reaching the Helford estuary we had to choose whether to follow the coast line up the river, crossing near Helford Passage, or to head out to Toll Point, an open crossing of 2½ km. The latter course meant ferry gliding across the ebb, a paddle which is quite testing because of the tidal influences in the estuary. On arriving at Helford Passage we both realised that we had experienced an enjoyable paddle. The day’s trip for us was in the region of 23 km, a wonderful day with superb weather conditions.
Thursday 2 June. The trip was up to Gweek from Helford Passage, return. Three of us took part. It is advisable to paddle up to Gweek on the flood tide, as the upper reaches dry out. Well they don’t exactly dry out, there is a residue of liquid mud which makes paddling almost impossible. Wading is performed about neck deep. We paddled into a fairly stiff breeze all the way up to Gweek, where we lunched. I had only just exited my kayak when the heavens opened. I stood under trees which gradually let the water through. However, I managed to consume my lunch before it became too waterlogged. I launched the boat before another downpour, and we set off downstream. Opposite the Gweek Seal Sanctuary a motor yacht had come to grief on the mud. Luckily, with tremendous effort they managed to free themselves before becoming stuck for many hours. The wind gradually increased in force during the return trip, speedily pushing us homeward bound.
On returning to the campsite we all discussed whether to continue with the paddling programme for Friday, or to pack up. We decided to have a night’s rest before coming to any firm decision. The night was very stormy, with strong winds and heavy rain virtually the whole time.
Friday 3 June. Because of the appalling weather conditions, with no promise of a break, we all decided to end our holiday. Everyone had left when I departed in heavy rain at 1300 hours. The heavy rain continued until I reached home at approximately 2100 hours, tired, hungry, wet, and thoroughly cheesed off. However, it had been a wonderful holiday. The scenery has to be seen to be believed, the forests, the hamlets hiding up winding tree lined creeks, the majestic cliffs and the wild life, not to mention my wonderful companions, who made the journey worthwhile. Should you ever get the opportunity to go to Falmouth, then take it, for it is a magical place. Surely someone will discover this place, develop and spoil it forever.
Peter A Clark